Three-wheelers. Trikes & Velomobiles

The explanation of the complexity and considerations and how many versions and years it takes... it's a really good advertisement for why €10,ooo is a fair price.
But i also found it a bit demotivating for my desires to build trikes and velomobiles.
 
Don't be afraid to fail. I've built a few failures and learned from them. You always learn more from mucking it up than getting it right. Also there's always more than one way to build our machines. Just because one person goes high tech and high cost doesn't mean you have to. I've seen velo bodies made from tent poles and sellotape.
 
Great video. Lots of interesting facts and concepts. I am interested in doing an off set trike. For a slower fun bike for Burning man.

I would love to see more videos about the tadpole geometry and suspension... it is fascinating.
 
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thanks for sharing it is a good summary of fundamental things also nice to see he guy explaining how he learnt from his early prototypes and misconceptions. I wish i had viewed it earlier i would have saved errors.

As for fairings having built surfboards or kiteboards i learnt it is hard to keep the weight of a fiberglass or carbon layup to expectations with hand layup and no vacuum bagging or peelply. Plus mold is tons of labor,
resin, money not reused if only a proto.

thus for a non structural fairing on trike the skeleton and thin cover seem much better.

It is even more rigid and stronger than you think, light planes used to be made of a thin wood frame with fabric on it. The enduction shrinks slighltly and creates tension hence strength.

There is a modern version, thin fabric with glue and enduction that is heat shrink, so it can be applied with an iron and great care onto a light frame.
some faired bikes have been built this way.
 
thanks for sharing it is a good summary of fundamental things also nice to see he guy explaining how he learnt from his early prototypes and misconceptions. I wish i had viewed it earlier i would have saved errors.

As for fairings having built surfboards or kiteboards i learnt it is hard to keep the weight of a fiberglass or carbon layup to expectations with hand layup and no vacuum bagging or peelply. Plus mold is tons of labor,
resin, money not reused if only a proto.

thus for a non structural fairing on trike the skeleton and thin cover seem much better.

It is even more rigid and stronger than you think, light planes used to be made of a thin wood frame with fabric on it. The enduction shrinks slighltly and creates tension hence strength.

There is a modern version, thin fabric with glue and enduction that is heat shrink, so it can be applied with an iron and great care onto a light frame.
some faired bikes have been built this way.
Good words there.
Frames like this which I've nearly finished for a Greenspeed Aero trike.
aero-fairing.png

I may use this fairing as it is, covered in polyester heat shrink, or nylon and dope, then use that to make a quick mould to produce a carbon fairing, current weight 850 grams.
Been running with the Carbontrike SL racer fairing with great success this year, weighing only 1 kg.
 
Impressive ! Are you laser cutting aero plywood from 3d model slices ?
I d love to learn that i am old school model plane builder
 
I've been designing a racing trike last year autumn 2024. Just picked it up again 2025, thought it could be a quad racer too. I just need to sort the Ackermann steering out and wait for the warm weather, to begin the build. Here is the Ackermann 'look see', it might be useful to someone. It's tank steering. I start with best guess on the cad drawing, then home in on the zero error figure. It is capable of being accurate down to 5 metre turning radius, but I will be happy with 7 meters with 20" wheel. This design is for 16" wheels incase I need to go there.
The figures in red are the error caused by not having the correct throw position which I am trying to achieve. I get it bang on eventually.
 
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Dale,
Nothing much to add more than other members said about that short film with fellow's trikes and velomobiles, theory and practise!
It is a little of-side for this topic (but could be useful?) - there were some other short films from the same author:




About ultralight carrosserie for velomobiles, are Skin-on-Frame boats construction familiar for velomobile designers/builders?



They are cheap to build, strong and stiff, but need a lot of labour?
Regards, Zoran
 
Testing picture uploads.

Image. Performer Saki
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Tried a mid-hi racer to see if I could cope with it. Starts are still rookie style and no race confidence yet. Needs more riding. But initially first rides were better than starting with the M5 bike so I haven't decided which steed will be used in anger.
 
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Image. Carbontrike front right wheel
_IJL2054.jpg
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Weaponry used at the HPV World Champs 2024. The complicated Carbon Trike SL racer is still a beauty and easy to ride, very well behaved. I prefer this machine at the moment. The Greenspeed Aero may eclipse her if I get track results.
 
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Image Quest cracks.
_IJL2041.jpg
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fixing the quest.
Cynoed the cracks first, then carbon fibred the backside with 3 layers of 200g fibre.

Uploads still good.
Anyone with blue message screens?

Other news, bought a 2 wheel "proper" road race bike (don't tell the wife!), as some tracks are twisty at this year's events . Plus I can go out on the roads with other TT racers and sneak in at the back to do some training. Bike:- Planet X pro Carbon Road racer with Dura Ace gear on, as light as a feather.
 
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Good words there.
Frames like this which I've nearly finished for a Greenspeed Aero trike.
aero-fairing.png

I may use this fairing as it is, covered in polyester heat shrink, or nylon and dope, then use that to make a quick mould to produce a carbon fairing, current weight 850 grams.
Been running with the Carbontrike SL racer fairing with great success this year, weighing only 1 kg.
All done using a 2D CAD program, though it does pseudo 3D, which I use a lot. Draftsight. Also made cardboard body outlines while sitting in the seat to start things off. It looks complicated but has evolved so each step was simple. Start with cross section outlines vertical and horizontal, then the sliced sections are more 'best suited' to do what I want or for streamlined appearance. Next came the lightening holes as I have a desire to keep the weight to less than 1Kg.
 
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