Starting over, but feeling okay about it

stormbird said:
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I am considering this to attach foxed sprockets to my rear wheels for the quad.
Any reason why you did not drill all 6 holes and dispense with the epoxy all together ?
I assume the flange in steel will be as strong as the poor quality used in the Chinese made adaptors ?
The trick is to find some M14 axled BMX wheels with big enough diameter flanges IMHO.

Paul
ps sorry for thread hijack
Click to expand...

No reason not to do all six. I didn't think it was necessary. The epoxy is the prime method of holding the adapter on. Modern glues are excellent enough to hold a Lotus Elise together. The screws are just insurance against failure and a means of getting home. The problem with relying on the screws alone is primarily the distance from the adapter to the flange. This creates a lot of leverage which I expect would oval the holes in the flange sooner or later. A steel flange is undoubtedly going to be stronger than a ally adapter but that leverage distance is likely to overcome that. One more issue that exacerbates that is the flange is unlikely to be perpendicular on both sides and as such getting nuts to clamp the screw effectively to the flange becomes difficult. Even using angled washers won't help much due to the curvature (likely double curvature) of it. Unless, of course, you can model the washers required and get a man who can to make them.
By all means drill all 6 but I'd advise you to keep the epoxy and use good stuff too. I gave that trike some serious stick down hills and they stood up to the job. As to big flanges I resorted to measuring pictures on my 'puter screen to find some. A long way short of ideal but all I could think of as flange diameters are rarely quoted.
 
These bolts?

BFel3mx.png
 
Here is a video of my pedal car in motion. The steering is still shaky even though all the joints are tight. I have ordered a steering stabilizer that is used to correct the condition. Feel free to comment in ordinary language.

thanks Dan

Shaky Wheel Issue
 
Ok very useful video well done.

I would suggest that is bump steer , so the front wheel geometry is such that when the wheel is disturbed it is momentarily deflected off course , there are long spells on smooth ground where the wheel does not move off track at all.

I would suggest the steering damper MAY hid the effect but will not be a cure.

Someone came on here saying his welds were braking , they weren't the tubing was tearing beyond the weld where it was at it's thinnest , the steering damper was transmitting all the wobble energy into the frame increasing the frame load at that point.

Probably not easy to fix , but easy to look up !

Paul

ps others will be along shortly who know more than me [ that ain't hard now days ! ]
 
One of two things.
  1. Wheels not in good enough alignment.
  2. Too much give along the entirety of the steering. Something may need bracing or remaking stronger.
 
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