Quad Pedal Car - 2025 late Xmas/early Birthday present ?

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Sorry, the cramps was an illustration to the fact that I struggle in the races, it's my own demon to over come.
I think you did very well.
Also I think you could get to between 20 & 22 position, with just a small effort on tinkering with the pedal car.
Better streamlining could give 0.5 mph.
Better tyres another 0.5 mph.
Improve fitness regime.
Or just change your ride for a lightweight!

Personally, I don't mind being last. If you look at what I did over the years I'm the last leg-powered trike in the field.
Persistence makes me look good!
You kept up with the field for long enough for accreditation, I take my hat off to you.
A 5-hour race surpasses my efforts.

A least try York 22nd June and Hull 19th & 20th. These BHPC tracks are flat and should suit you.
If no likey, then ditch. But I bet you don't come last!

Last note, "stuffing sandwiches"- should have been paste mix then a banana pud! Fuel that engine.
 
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So this car was taken out to meet a friend who after 2 laps of the car park was confident enough to take it out around a local lake
jim-worried-DSCF9729.jpg

Looks a bit worried as this was only his second car park lap !

However he thoroughly enjoyed his lake laps [ about 2.5 miles ] and though it was marvelous if a little noisy on the uneven surface.

We retired to a local cafe for coffee and toast , however on leaving I had a nagging doubt all was not well with the car.

Now on the way there the car was making some odd noises that it had not made whilst racing the right disc brake [ always the better one of the 2 ] was making a noise , not a intermittent rub - ok - rub but a screech then no screech. On the way home I discovered if the car turned to the right the screeching started and if it turned to the left it stopped - my eventual conclusion was the right rear half shaft must be loose ? So I stopped as soon as I could and tried to move it in and out , b*****d the bloody thing moved the whole width of the gap between the brake pads . The only thing stopping it letting go was the caliper straddling the rotor.

Now I am partly to blame for this as there are 4 grub screws holding the half shafts into the pillow block bearings and I did not use locking compound on them as it seemed every other week I was still removing them to try and get the disc brakes to work , however they were very tight before the first race ?

On it's own this would have meant just a very gentle ride home trying not to stress it ? However before I tracked this problem down I was puzzled as to when I had the car/right rear wheel on grass or a loose surface it was spinning the right rear wheel ? Now there is only 1 reason for it doing that ? yes the car was now 1WD the left wheel NOT being driven by the pedals , I can only assume the bolt providing the drive has either unscrewed itself in the space made available by the right half shaft moving outwards OR the drive screw has broken AGAIN as before when I discovered this all the testing pre-race.

This could also account for some of the problems with the gear change also as there is absolutely nothing positively locating the 2WD unit in place JUST the fact the half shafts are snug inside it and NOT free to move left or right ? Surely if the right half shaft can move about 3-4mm then the cassette can as well , dumped it in the garage in disgust 🥹🥹

So disassembled this afternoon yes 1WD drive bolt snapped again !

break-DSCF9732.jpg
break-half-shaft-end-DSCF9734.jpg


You can see the break and the broken piece in the half shaft also note the threads in the half shaft come right to the end , however on the bolt there are almost no thread between the bolt head and the break ?

So has the 2WD unit been moving and worn the threads away ? before snapping the bolt ?

good-side-DSCF9731.jpg

Another potential problem is that this is the right side inside it's pawl carrier can you see the bolt head on the end of the half shaft is no where near long enough to properly engage in the hex hole in the carrier ?

So unsure what to do ?
a) can't sell it as is - the remaining right wheel drive may fail.
b) don't want to buy custom made half shafts to just to sell it and not get any mileage out of them
c) remove wheels , seat , chain and 2WD unit and scrap the rest taking a hit ?

All for now Paul
 
If that bolt-head is 12mm AF then the threaded shaft looks to be c.8mm. That is way too small for a twisting torsional force because it is in the centre. An 8mm pin at a distance from the centre is much stronger. So it is bound to fail I think.

Yup, part the thing out as spares or sell complete as "for spares or repair".
If you don't want to spend the money on new and proper half-shafts to fix it for good.

What a bummer. That's 2 cars you have had poor outcomes with. :(
 
If that bolt-head is 12mm AF then the threaded shaft looks to be c.8mm. That is way too small for a twisting torsional force because it is in the centre. An 8mm pin at a distance from the centre is much stronger. So it is bound to fail I think.
It is the M8 bolt head reduced [ somehow ] from 13mm to 11mm
Yup, part the thing out as spares or sell complete as "for spares or repair".
If you don't want to spend the money on new and proper half-shafts to fix it for good.
I could sell the wheels 5 reasonable quality < 240 miles and 2 sets of race tyres
then sell the 2WD unit - without any halfshafts ?
What a bummer. That's 2 cars you have had poor outcomes with. :(
Is it me ........

Paul
 
I have to say I'm with Danny on this one, only more so - Take off anything useful, and cut up the frame for your metal stash.
Stop the madness ! 😧
 
You didn't make them defective, they already were.
It's one thing to take a decently designed machine, and customize it for your use,
but another entirely, to try and correct one with so many inherent problems - It becomes an endless tail-chasing exercise.
But then, I shouldn't give advice, having been found guilty as charged, a number of times myself 🫤
 
Is 98% of the car ok? And just the axles or even the hex end faulty? If so, just make new, better axles. It will be cheaper than abandoning and restarting from ground zero!
 
Is 98% of the car ok? And just the axles or even the hex end faulty? If so, just make new, better axles. It will be cheaper than abandoning and restarting from ground zero!
It is a race car , I proved I don't need a race car.
It is for sale because I don't want it.
neither do I want to spend any more money or time on it.

Paul
 
1M of 17mm Silver steel is £21 + £5 P&P
1M of 15mm Silver Steel is £17.39 +£5 P&P
Making the ends off appropriately is the tricky bit.
Needs a lathe & a Mill.
A small engineering firm or hobbyist could be approached for a quote.
If it makes the 2WD bullet-proof like it should be then it's possibly worth it.
The bolts-in-axles solution is now proven to be easily snapped.
A purely personal judgement call to be made I am afraid.
Throw good money after bad, or "Fix, Flog & Forget"?
 
DannyC , undertoad

Yes silver steel would fix THAT problem , however it is not the complete answer ?

At the other end are 2 plates welded on to the half shaft that have bolted to one side of them the disc rotors.

Now these either need removing for re-use [ hard ] or new one's making and then welding in exactly the right place so the rotors line up with the tolerance built into the disc mounting hardware oh and take into the account one of the original mounts is in the wrong place and needs a bucket full of washers to work.

having been fighting this car since early January , all the fight has left me.

short of having anything positive coming from the pedal car club I suspect the usable/valuable parts will end up on Ebay ....

Paul
 
having been fighting this car since early January , all the fight has left me.

short of having anything positive coming from the pedal car club I suspect the usable/valuable parts will end up on Ebay ....
Paul,
I get this entirely. Part it out, and salvage what you can from the wreckage.
There's a useful 2WD unit, wheels, tyres, brakes etc. the rest is probably scrap value only.
Sorry that it has ended this way for you. Your "fresh start" will deliver a more appropriate vehicle I am sure. :)
 
Ok I have a problem ?

I though I had put the monkey labelled ' I have had enough of this pedal car ' firmly in it's box with a label on saying ' Not to be opened this millennium ? '

Well it's out again

I don't understand the mechanism that caused the bolt failure in the first place , nor why the right half shaft [ with evidence of a similar bolt being welded in ] has not failed ? despite it providing all the drive when the left bolt fails ? [ ** see below ** ]
break-DSCF9732.jpg

This picture shows 3 things
a) the hex head did not shear off the flange
b) the thread did not shear off at the change of section between the flange and the thread
c) where there should be some thread left it has been ground away ?

left-drive-dwgt.jpg

So there are 3 elements :-
1) wheel and axle all one piece
2) drive bolt
3) cassette and free wheel [ only one show above ]

Now in my mind the broken bolt shows that it came partially unscrewed from the halfshaft and the loads on the interface between the bolt threads and the halfshaft threaded hole were the point of failure.
Now that could happen if the driver stopped pedaling and the car was free wheeling ?

Except DannyC is convinced there is insufficient force from the pawls to stop hold the bolt while the turning wheel/halfshaft unscrewed it ?

If it did unscrew it would force the pawl carrier to the right till it met the other one as in effect the half shaft would grow longer. That in turn then forced them both to ride the inside of the right hand bearing. That could give just enough room for the break to be part of the way down the bolt.[ both bolts broke in the same place.]

**
If the M8/M11 hex bolt interface is strong enough not to break when the right hand half shaft is carrying all the load [ and up hills ] then maybe it is the weld that is the cause simply because it stops in unscrewing ?

Paul
 
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