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No it can't.
Quad Pedal Car - 2025 late Xmas/early Birthday present ?
- Thread starter stormbird
- Start date
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I can only describe an M8 bolt head as a failure waiting to happen for a drive system. The bolt head is effectively giving leverage over the bolt shaft because of the diameter differences. If they can't be milled on as Danny describes then cut a chamfer on the end of the shaft and fill it in with weld after putting a new bolt in. You are then removing the leverage and increasing the strength.
I am hoping my engineer friend has that in mind AFTER I have stopped him saying making new half shafts is the best solution.
Well yes I know it would be IF
a) you didn't have to make a new drive interface for each one
b) then remake both disc brake mounts as they are bound to be in the wrong place
c) do this whilst the chassis is 4 miles away being worked on for other stuff
Might work if the first race wasn't 26 days away and I still have loads to do to it.
Paul
Ok quick update , broken stud has been removed and several options have been discussed.
Plan is to do as little as possible to get it drive-able and consider changing the bolts after every race [ where practical ] to get to the end of the season.
It turns out whilst the bolts are 8mm thread the heads are only 11mm hex as that is the size inside the pawl carriers.
Him being an engineer he put forward several options to ' strengthen ' this aspect of the drive train with the caveat of ' if we make this part to strong we may destroy parts of the 2WD unit ' not something I want to happen.
Paul
Plan is to do as little as possible to get it drive-able and consider changing the bolts after every race [ where practical ] to get to the end of the season.
It turns out whilst the bolts are 8mm thread the heads are only 11mm hex as that is the size inside the pawl carriers.
Him being an engineer he put forward several options to ' strengthen ' this aspect of the drive train with the caveat of ' if we make this part to strong we may destroy parts of the 2WD unit ' not something I want to happen.
Paul
"It turns out whilst the bolts are 8mm thread the heads are only 11mm hex as that is the size inside the pawl carriers."
Machined from 13mmAF hex to 11mmAF hex then, makes sense to get a better fit.
Don't go to Screwfix or Toolstation stores for the bolts, they say high tensile but don't give what grade. They'll be cheap chinese "ess haych one tee" stuff.
arunfasteners.co.uk
An engineer could make bolts (themselves) from EN24 EN36C if at hand
Good luck, hope you get it going.
Machined from 13mmAF hex to 11mmAF hex then, makes sense to get a better fit.
Don't go to Screwfix or Toolstation stores for the bolts, they say high tensile but don't give what grade. They'll be cheap chinese "ess haych one tee" stuff.
Grade 12.9 Full Thread Bolts / Setscrews - Arun Fasteners
Grade 12.9 Full Thread Bolts / Setscrews DIN 933. Available from M6 - M24 for next day delivery. Great value for singles and bulk.
arunfasteners.co.uk
An engineer could make bolts (themselves) from EN24 EN36C if at hand
Good luck, hope you get it going.
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There's that too - Consider the bolts as sacrificial "shear pins", and replace often.
Just don't use thread locker, then
I think that was his plan and a few spares.An engineer could make bolts (themselves) from EN24 EN36C if at hand
Good luck, hope you get it going.
Another worry was that if one had broken then the other was not going to last long if I continued riding and it was doing all the work ?
Paul
"When it comes to strength comparison, non-heat-treated bolts with rolled threads have higher strength than those with cut threads. However, heat-treated bolts with cut or rolled threads have the same strength based on the hardness of the part."
So burning the candle at both ends now , this was done before my morning ride.
A 68 mile races grime and 2 years worth of dust washed off , some of the markings have also been removed , ready for the new numbers and class
marking being applied.
The top piece is a light alloy frame that is screwed to the chassis then before this body work was taped to the chassis and the frame , making it difficult and time consuming to get at the parts inside.
New plan is to re-fix the frame to the chassis then attach the side panels and rear panel with plastic screws and were appropriate tape to the frame only , and make the whole lot come off in one piece ?
Re-assembled new moved chain pulleys and re-mounted seat all now with lock nuts in case it ever gets to race
On a night I have been assembling and laminating the numbers and class markings almost finished those.
Paul
A 68 mile races grime and 2 years worth of dust washed off , some of the markings have also been removed , ready for the new numbers and class
marking being applied.
The top piece is a light alloy frame that is screwed to the chassis then before this body work was taped to the chassis and the frame , making it difficult and time consuming to get at the parts inside.
New plan is to re-fix the frame to the chassis then attach the side panels and rear panel with plastic screws and were appropriate tape to the frame only , and make the whole lot come off in one piece ?
Re-assembled new moved chain pulleys and re-mounted seat all now with lock nuts in case it ever gets to race
On a night I have been assembling and laminating the numbers and class markings almost finished those.
Paul
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Thing is at times my album looks like this :-Lets try embedding small pics (thumbnails) rather than the direct link big ones, see if that works.
Example:
Paul
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I hope you have retained copies of your pictures yourself. Given postimage's issues I wouldn't trust them not to loose any or just to fold. I keep all of mine on two separate computers and a cloud storeage server. Any I upload to any of those three get automatically sent to the other two. I only send to imgur those I wish to post on the net. There's plenty of instances of hosting companies going under.
