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I was there and saw it more than onceI feel your pain and have been there before with chain-line, diverters and derailleurs that hit the sleeping policemen as you ride over them.![]()
Well the main focus [ now ] is definitively around town/tourerIf this is not to be a racer and more of a tourer and around-town affair, does it need to be so close to the ground?
There is always scopeIs there scope for raising the main frame/lowering the axles?
See reply to your other questions.A pair of turning circles for a swb and a lwb. They both have the wheels turned the same amount, and the same track plus the swb one takes into account the bottom bracket (yellow box) protruding forward.
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I was not aware 40" wb was lwb ? The pedal car handbook says swb can give twitchy handling [ read I assume @ racing speeds ] however when pushed they can't give a figure for SWBWhy are you so intent on a lwb chassis? It will increase turning circle. I get that most if not all of the pedal cars you see at your races may well use lwb but track requirements prioritise stability at speed
It is not as simple as turning circle IF you are entering a gate that you have to then make a 90' turn ?and you need turning circle as a priority for your road use. I do not understand your choice.
The rear wheels are considerable further forward than they can be on a tadpole , yes I could bring them further forward to the detriment of the handling I suspect.If it's just because you want it then that's fair enough. I've done many a thing for that reason myself, but it's at odds with your stated needs.
The plan is to use a wide range cassette say 34T - 10T as opposed to the ubiquitous standard 28T - 14T allowing me to get away with a single ring at the front simplifying the controls and saving some weight.To get around the need to hike the layshaft so much for the mech you could run an igh wherever is best between seat and pedals and then run the chain to the layshaft which itself can then be further back as it'll be running a smaller drive cog than the first gear on a cassette. This does suppose you have or are prepared to get a decent igh which I accept is a big budget item.
The bottom bracket is in the same place on long and short wheelbases so you need to turn both at a similar time. On a swb it isn't the bb that's stuck out but the front wheels that are brought back. That may seem like a play on words but it's not. Both vehicles are the same length. The difference is the swb will turn harder because the pivot of the turning circle is brought nearer the quad.My simple brain assumes that to big a overhang in front of the wheels will mean you have to turn earlier to avoid crashing into the barrier ahead of you ?
Paul
