Marauder LowRacer Pilots

A

Abe

Hi I've got my Marauder to the point where I'm test riding it.
No drive train yet since I'm using am electric wheel in the back.
In it's lowest riding position I'm finding it difficult to keep up with balancing it.
It seems the low centre of gravity and the longer wheel base more steering angle is needed to balance.
When I prop the suspension up so I am at least 8 inches higher its a bit easier.
I love the low frontal area so I'd hate to go tadpole?
What can I expect with more practice ?
 
At low speeds pull yourself up in the seat [ vertical if possible ], it will be much easier to ride.

Once up to speed you can recline and take advantage of the more aero profile,

Paul
 
Way ahead on the gloves idea.
My question is will it get easier with practise?
I've been on gravel so far so that is also less stable.
Even up to 30 KPH it's a bit of a jerky control.
I have 3.5 miles of gravel to the nearest paved shoulder.
 
Abe said:
My question is will it get easier with practise?
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Yes. Many two wheeled recumbents are awkward at first. Even a two wheeled python can be ridden and if those contraptions can be mastered the Marauder will be an order of magnitude easier than that.
Training wheels have been used to start learning on such machines. The only issue is commercially available wheels are designed flimsy to take a kids weight so an adult will bend them.
 
How low is your seat from the floor ?

Are you adverse to having a trike ?

Very narrow delta 18" ! post #63 onwards his is a Python delta trike with only a 18" rear track , compared to a 2 wheeled Python this is 100% stable and no ' help ' moments.

It has to be treated with care when crossing camber especially steep stuff like peoples driveways , however in everyday riding it is supremely safe and planted.

It has been raced and did not disgrace itself , within the capability of the rider ;) (y)

It would be relatively easy to add 2 wheels to the Maurader , it does not have to be welded on it could be a bolt on jobie so easily reverted back to a 2 wheeler ? Try looking at one of Brads delta plans to see how to build the rear end easily & cheaply.

Paul
 
Having rear suspension allows ride height adjusting.
I can adjust from the tubing scraping the bumps till about 9" off the ground.
I should be able to increase that further with a grinder.
In summer I had the steering hooked up with a cable in a pipe.
Thinking that had too much backlash and friction I've now gone with a small ujoint directly off the fork above the head.
 
I built a tomahawk and the learning curve was difficult for a while, it took some practice and adjustment. Something that helped me was changing the handlebars, mine were way to big. I was riding and gripped my bars almost at the center post to steer and it was so much easier to control. I looked at 'real' recumbent bike's handlebars, they're about a fist width to grip and barely any space in between the hands. It seemed counterintuitive to me, but it made a huge difference in reducing over steering and twitching issues.
 
Thom_G said:
I built a tomahawk and the learning curve was difficult for a while, it took some practice and adjustment. Something that helped me was changing the handlebars, mine were way to big. I was riding and gripped my bars almost at the center post to steer and it was so much easier to control. I looked at 'real' recumbent bike's handlebars, they're about a fist width to grip and barely any space in between the hands. It seemed counterintuitive to me, but it made a huge difference in reducing over steering and twitching issues.
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Thom-G I assume this is simply a leverage issue , you greatly reduced the leverage and hence the sensitivity of the steering.

It always amazes me when I see MTB's that have handle bars nearly a meter wide , whats that all about ! then with 4" tyres and 1" nobbles it ain't a problem all that aero drag.

Paul
 
MTB need wide bars because when flying down a mountain the kickback from hitting rocks and uneven terrain on landing a jump needs that leverage to counter it. Narrow bars would have you off at the first big kickback. Most MTB never suffer the use for which they were designed. Cyclocross bars can be narrow as the tracks they use are not usually strewn with large rocks and jumps so any kickback can be handled with less leverage.

Nobody in their right mind would choose a recumbent for a MTB track so the only time you need to go wide would be to clear legs or wheels.
 
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