Got's me a Cat-Weazle.

The Derailleur is as much in line as I imagine it should be as it shifts perfectly on each gear-change and that idler is bang-on "inline" for each gear.
It is just way too close to the sprocket on the lowest gear, and therefore in the wrong place for all the others too.
The new derailleur has arrived and will be put on there tomorrow and I will let you all know if it resolves the issue. :)
 
The derailleur B stop is as it should be ! however have you checked someone has not tried to put a cassette on with a bigger low gear than it should have ? The frame may only be made for a 28T and someone may have tried to fit a 32T or greater , then you will be in a world of pain as there is little clearance for a mech extender bracket (n)

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Paul
 
You could be right, I don't know if this is the original cassette or an "upgrade" some kind soul has installed.
Got the "new" derailleur on today and "sort-of" working (inconsistent shifting up/down in the middle of the cassette).
I might put the old one back on. :)

Plenty of other problems to work through though.
The Bafang is incomplete with respect to parts/cables etc. so I will have to go shopping for them.

But it is on and fitted in the BB Shell, and crank/pedals have been added.
As we have no traditional horizontal handlebar section where one can locate the on/off +/- controls and any thumb throttle something will have to be made to bung in the end of one of the bars to provide a "T"-piece to mount these controls on.
 
You could be right, I don't know if this is the original cassette or an "upgrade" some kind soul has installed.
Got the "new" derailleur on today and "sort-of" working (inconsistent shifting up/down in the middle of the cassette).
I might put the old one back on. :)
The Panther pedal car had similar problems , seems they had mixed MTB and Road components and they had different cable pull needs ?

Paul
 
The Panther pedal car had similar problems , seems they had mixed MTB and Road components and they had different cable pull needs ?

Paul
With Shimano 9 speed you can mix and match and everything works. It's not the case with 10 speed.

With a big motor the need for a tall first gear is negligible so a smaller diameter cassette should fix it.
 
According to the folks from BROL the earlier Ketts only had 28t as the largest sprocket.
So I guess I will have to change out the 11-36 on there.
 
If I am forced by age, infirmity, madness etc. to electrify the Catweazle then there needs to be a place for the controls.

This is typically just the "head-unit" with the display and the "keyboard" both normally located on the handle bars(road bike) or somewhere else "handy" on a recumbent. Usually things are not at the right angle position for easy use. On the Tadpole I have to lean all the way forward to the controls located on a fixture on the keel.

I want to be able to do all this from my laid-back sitting position instead. I looked at the clamped-on bar ends that the mirrors are inserted into, but they are not long/wide enough (if you see what I mean).

Simplest answer: Let Lathe-Boy out of the box and gimp-suit and let him have a go. :)

Now on a recent visit, Paul (aka Stormbird) donated some soiled underpants Nylon round bar that was 32mm diameter.
Without any regard for anyone's feelings Lathe boy hacked a portion off and started to molest it.
IMG-20240917-151100-526.jpg

Before you could say "What on earth do you think you are doing?" he had only gone and turned it down and stuffed it in a bar-end.
IMG-20240917-151115-602.jpg

He popped a 7mm hole through it end to end and then cut a 22mm hole at right-angles through the top.
Before I could apprehend him and get him under some restraint he had whipped out an old handle bar and shoved it through to check how well it fitted.
IMG-20240917-154733-150.jpg


He had the sheer effrontery to tell me that I should cut the shank of the nylon insert at 60° and cut a pocket for an M6 nut in the lower part. He says that the finished item can then operate like a gooseneck in a headset. The cheek of him! I think he needs to get a visit from Marcellus Wallace and be put back in his place.

But it might work, you never know. :cool:
 
Lathe-boy escaped from his strait-jacket today and did lots of damage.
He snapped a drill-bit, and a brand-new M6 Tap.
I had to take over and stop all his nonsense.
I scrapped his idea of a sliding wedge gooseneck and put the nasty hard to work stainless steel he had been messing around with away.
Out came a good reliable chunk of mild steel round bar and in no time we had a little tapered button with an M6 thread ready for use as a wedge device for this handlebar insert of his.

All that will be required is to put 2 cuts into the bottom of the insert that will spread out like wedges when the tapered button is pulled upwards by the M6 bolt. In the image below an M6 bolt has been threaded through the tapered button to hold it in position so you can see the concept clearly. A large 16mm drill bit will be used to create a receiving "dish" shape in the bottom of the stem before the cuts are made and this will help the taper button to centre and spread the stem inside the handlebar end. :)

IMG-20240918-164522-855.jpg
 
There are the beginnings of a rear rack appearing on the Catweazle.
The job is made more difficult by the dihedral of the rear axles. Ground may not be level and the rack is 0.94° off horizontal, or, i have not got the rack exactly in the middle so it is down one slope and up the other.
Basketwork to fill this space for a battery tray. Support stay will go up to the rear of the seat.

Might not work, but the metal was lying around on a shelf. :)

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