Full suspension trike design and build.

[Emiel]

The next project is started. The quad isn't finished yet, but i started with designing the next trike.

I am now working on a suspension design. As inspiration i used the steintrikes. I will do a similar front suspension and steering. It is a simple design that is easy to make. The only thing i do, is using ball bearings on the suspension arms on the side of the frame.

The things i like on the steintrike is that you can easily change it into something else. That is why i do the same.
I also will use round tubing from stainless steel.

We will ad least build 3 trikes. For maddox, badass cycles and one for me. But probably it will be 5 trikes.
2 other people want one to.
Because some people have other wishes, it is nice to have a trike like the steintrikes where you can swap things out. The center will be by all the same, but Maddox wants something different from what i want. One of the other people want an other drive train in the front.
So making the base the same, makes it easier to build the different trikes.

I want it with 20inch all around, but others want 26inch all around.
With of the front will be 90cm. That is wider than most trikes, but this so it is more stable and it works better as you use 26 inch wheels.
If it is to wide for some people, then i only need to make the arms s bit shorter. That isn't that hard.

The front suspension.

Added a bit more so i can see how much space i have for the steering and how i will do the chain line.

 

[Popshot]

I also will use round tubing from stainless steel.

It's a drill killer is that stuff. I found regular profile drills almost useless once you get above 6mm with or without a pilot. I eventually found and used Dewalt Extreme 2 drills with a pilot and flat profile. These were massively better but not cheap. Mind you it's not cheap throwing away a lot of "cheap" std cobalt drills either.

 

[stormbird]

Wow bet it is going to be hard feeding the chain and steering components through all that ' stuff '.

However it does beg the question you have an excellent cycling infra structure why do you need suspension ?

Paul

 

[Radical Brad]

This will be a great project to watch.
Too bad there wasn't a simple shaft drive option to bring the drive through the boom and then do a mid drive chain system under the seat.

 

[Emiel]

Wow bet it is going to be hard feeding the chain and steering components through all that ' stuff '.

However it does beg the question you have an excellent cycling infra structure why do you need suspension ?

Paul

The steering is easy, i worked that further out. I used Steintrikes system.
The chain will also not that hard.
There is enough space inbetween the arms.

 

[Emiel]

This will be a great project to watch.
Too bad there wasn't a simple shaft drive option to bring the drive through the boom and then do a mid drive chain system under the seat.

That is actually quite a nice thing to put on it.
I can design it, but I'm afraid it's quite expensive to make. I have looked at the gears once and they were quite pricey. You have to make a custom crankset.
The kink can be done with a double hinge joint. Then back and let the axle to the side come out and then with a chain to the rear wheel.

Before adjusting the length, you can have an axis slide into a tube. Then you can still set it afterwards.

 

[Emiel]

Here some images from the steering and from the mounting for the Shock absorber.

The left side is not right. I did not mirror it yet. I will do that later.
Akkerman is also not right yet. I do that this week.

Now you can see how i do the Steering Paul.
This system is used by more trikes. Hp velotechnick and Steun trikes use it Also.
My designe is inspired by steintrikes. I will only use ball bearings instead of plain bearings. This makes it more reliable.

The chain has enough space inbetween the arms. The shock absorbers are a bit further out, so there is enough space between the arms.

Round tube is a bit more difficult to straighten everything properly, but we are going to use molds.

As all that is fineshed, then i start with the rear.

 

[Emiel]

It's a drill killer is that stuff. I found regular profile drills almost useless once you get above 6mm with or without a pilot. I eventually found and used Dewalt Extreme 2 drills with a pilot and flat profile. These were massively better but not cheap. Mind you it's not cheap throwing away a lot of "cheap" std cobalt drills either.

I know, but the plates will be laser cut.

 

[Popshot]

Round tubes look so much more professional.

 

[Emiel]

Round tubes look so much more professional.

That is true.
I also like the round tubing more on how it looks.

 

[BigDumbDinosaur]

It's a drill killer is that stuff.

Not necessarily. I do a lot of work with mostly 304 stainless and routinely drill it with HSS drills and tap it with HSS gun taps. The important things are drill speed (moderate to slow) and use of a suitable cutting oil.

 

[Emiel]

Luckily the most is cutting and welding. Want to drill as least as possible.