Ed's 'StreetRunner' Quad Build
- Thread starter edspedalcars
- Start date
Took time off from updating.
With our mornings in the 17-20 degree range, I wait until late morning ...10-11ish to get started.
I work for about 2-4 hours on a good day.,.
I have started using some 1/8th oak panels I was gifted.
A top for the instrument panel, sans cutouts, and an insert for the back window.
The rear 'window' will be fitted with a perforated metal panel, (shown) for rear visibility.
It will be painted with a complementary color, and some artwork as well.
I haven't decided whether to cover the wood with fabric, paint it, or leave the wood look, my favorite. I'm having trouble choosing a complementary color for the metal insert. The faintly visible bracing will be removed.
I designed a 'nerf' bar for the rear.
FYI, for those that may not recognize the term.
The origin of the "hot rod nerf bar" can be traced back to the early hot rod scene, particularly popularized by the "California Kid" - a 1934 Ford three-window coupe owned by Pete Chapouris of Pete & Jake's Hot Rod Parts, which prominently featured a distinctive front nerf bar design, considered a classic "hot rod" aesthetic; this style was then widely replicated and adopted by other hot rod enthusiasts, making the nerf bar a recognizable feature on modified cars from that era.
Using old/new finials, EMT pipe, swing springs, bicycle headtube adjustable race nuts, and 1x1 square tube for the mount.
The brown 'sleeve' is used to hold the bar from sliding. It presses up against another tube wedged inside the spring.
The complete bar will be painted, warm gold, the same paint used on the rest of the car. The finial color...????.
Making upholstery templates with foam board.
With our mornings in the 17-20 degree range, I wait until late morning ...10-11ish to get started.
I work for about 2-4 hours on a good day.,.
I have started using some 1/8th oak panels I was gifted.
A top for the instrument panel, sans cutouts, and an insert for the back window.
The rear 'window' will be fitted with a perforated metal panel, (shown) for rear visibility.
It will be painted with a complementary color, and some artwork as well.
I haven't decided whether to cover the wood with fabric, paint it, or leave the wood look, my favorite. I'm having trouble choosing a complementary color for the metal insert. The faintly visible bracing will be removed.
I designed a 'nerf' bar for the rear.
FYI, for those that may not recognize the term.
The origin of the "hot rod nerf bar" can be traced back to the early hot rod scene, particularly popularized by the "California Kid" - a 1934 Ford three-window coupe owned by Pete Chapouris of Pete & Jake's Hot Rod Parts, which prominently featured a distinctive front nerf bar design, considered a classic "hot rod" aesthetic; this style was then widely replicated and adopted by other hot rod enthusiasts, making the nerf bar a recognizable feature on modified cars from that era.
Using old/new finials, EMT pipe, swing springs, bicycle headtube adjustable race nuts, and 1x1 square tube for the mount.
The brown 'sleeve' is used to hold the bar from sliding. It presses up against another tube wedged inside the spring.
The complete bar will be painted, warm gold, the same paint used on the rest of the car. The finial color...????.
Making upholstery templates with foam board.
It's raining here and I don't dance in the rain. But I do a mean 'jig' inside.
What you have before you is the beginning of two brackets to hold my recently acquired side lamps.
I'm using 1/8 x 1 flat stock.
I finally decided on these path lights. They don't come with proper brackets.
All that remains is to drill the mounting holes into the car body and the lamp bracket. Then a coat of warm gold paint.
That should make them pop against the red. I will weld the attaching nuts on the inside of the body panel.
Oops, I almost forgot, I will weld on a 1/4" solid rod on the tips of both brackets.
Are they going to be operable, you ask? Not at this time...no reason to.
I do have a surprise for inside the lamp though....that is for later
What you have before you is the beginning of two brackets to hold my recently acquired side lamps.
I'm using 1/8 x 1 flat stock.
I finally decided on these path lights. They don't come with proper brackets.
All that remains is to drill the mounting holes into the car body and the lamp bracket. Then a coat of warm gold paint.
That should make them pop against the red. I will weld the attaching nuts on the inside of the body panel.
Oops, I almost forgot, I will weld on a 1/4" solid rod on the tips of both brackets.
Are they going to be operable, you ask? Not at this time...no reason to.
I do have a surprise for inside the lamp though....that is for later
Lanterns modified
Sans paint, all that remains is to weld on the 1/4" rod to the bracket ends.
Oh yeah, and there is still the surprise for the inside of the lanterns...
Does the top 'ball' look familiar?
And what do you suppose the bottom extended tube is from?
I'll reveal the answer in my next post. In the meantime, have a guess...
The winner will get an all-expense trip to Nowheresville in the land of Not.
Sans paint, all that remains is to weld on the 1/4" rod to the bracket ends.
Oh yeah, and there is still the surprise for the inside of the lanterns...
Does the top 'ball' look familiar?
And what do you suppose the bottom extended tube is from?
I'll reveal the answer in my next post. In the meantime, have a guess...
The winner will get an all-expense trip to Nowheresville in the land of Not.
No winners for the trip to Nowheresville. 
I cut the bottom 3 1/2 inches off a couple of plastic funnels.
The black balls on the top are from bungee cords.
Progress report
I've been busy cleaning my shop and sorting the remaining bagged/tagged parts. (finding lost parts/tools is always fun).
Cleaned and prepped my homemade paint booth, anticipating its use soon.
Addressing the appearance of wavy side panels. They are made from 20 gauge sheet metal and are virtually flat, The wavy look is more than likely caused by the camera and lighting. Also, some grinding marks that have yet to be smoothed out.
I'm soon to order the body filler and paint for the next stage. Virtually all of the body is flat and only requires a skim coat of 'lightweight filler, if any. The welded edges require heavier-duty filler, with most applications being 1/8th or less.
www.jbtools.com
https://www.jbtools.com/duplicolor-mc200-metalcast-red-anodized-11-oz-aerosol/ (12 cans/132 oz)
I've found that 'decanting' spray cans is more cost-effective than other purchasing options. (.78 per oz)
Better yet, there is no thinning, mixing, reducer, etc. Using a proper spray gun and equipment helps to achieve a better paint job.
I cut the bottom 3 1/2 inches off a couple of plastic funnels.
The black balls on the top are from bungee cords.
Progress report
I've been busy cleaning my shop and sorting the remaining bagged/tagged parts. (finding lost parts/tools is always fun).
Cleaned and prepped my homemade paint booth, anticipating its use soon.
Addressing the appearance of wavy side panels. They are made from 20 gauge sheet metal and are virtually flat, The wavy look is more than likely caused by the camera and lighting. Also, some grinding marks that have yet to be smoothed out.
I'm soon to order the body filler and paint for the next stage. Virtually all of the body is flat and only requires a skim coat of 'lightweight filler, if any. The welded edges require heavier-duty filler, with most applications being 1/8th or less.
U. S. Chemical & Plastics 15310.G01 Special Lite Lightweight Auto Filler, 1 Gal
Buy U. S. Chemical & Plastics 15310.G01 Special Lite Lightweight Auto Filler, 1 Gal with an everyday low price and fast shipping! JB Tools
www.jbtools.com
https://www.jbtools.com/duplicolor-mc200-metalcast-red-anodized-11-oz-aerosol/ (12 cans/132 oz)
I've found that 'decanting' spray cans is more cost-effective than other purchasing options. (.78 per oz)
Better yet, there is no thinning, mixing, reducer, etc. Using a proper spray gun and equipment helps to achieve a better paint job.
