I don’t really understand the directions on the street fox ?
Could be me but are both the center line steering & the camber done at this point
Could be me but are both the center line steering & the camber done at this point
Camber
- Thread starter Ron Mollison
- Start date
DannyC
0
At what point? We don't know where in your build you are and you have provided no reference.
If you mean are the king-pin angles "pointing at contact patch" and caster-angle (self-centering) done in the same operation (e.g. welding the headset-tubes into the cross-beam, then YES; done at the same time.
There is no specific "camber adjustment, each wheel should be perpendicular (and no other colour).
Toe-in/out is set on the length of the tie-bar between the two wheels.
If you mean are the king-pin angles "pointing at contact patch" and caster-angle (self-centering) done in the same operation (e.g. welding the headset-tubes into the cross-beam, then YES; done at the same time.
There is no specific "camber adjustment, each wheel should be perpendicular (and no other colour).
Toe-in/out is set on the length of the tie-bar between the two wheels.
Popshot
0
The centre-line steering is set when you weld the axle mounting tab to the kingpin. The camber is set at the time you weld the kingpin to the frame.
To set the former you simply point the kingpin at the centre of the tyre tread when the tab is bolted to the hub and weld it in that position.
To set the latter a good trick when welding the kingpins to the chassis is to run a piece of threaded bar through both sets of hubs and tabs with nuts at the required locations to hold the wheels perfectly aligned to each other. This gives zero camber assuming you align the chassis with the paired front wheels perfectly. If you choose to build in some positive camber - ie top of wheel tipping in, then you can always put a small single kink in the centre of the threaded bar. Don't forget about castor though. Castor and camber are set at the same time. If you fail to put some castor in it'll not self-centre in a straight line.
To set the former you simply point the kingpin at the centre of the tyre tread when the tab is bolted to the hub and weld it in that position.
To set the latter a good trick when welding the kingpins to the chassis is to run a piece of threaded bar through both sets of hubs and tabs with nuts at the required locations to hold the wheels perfectly aligned to each other. This gives zero camber assuming you align the chassis with the paired front wheels perfectly. If you choose to build in some positive camber - ie top of wheel tipping in, then you can always put a small single kink in the centre of the threaded bar. Don't forget about castor though. Castor and camber are set at the same time. If you fail to put some castor in it'll not self-centre in a straight line.
That is what I was looking for.At what point? We don't know where in your build you are and you have provided no reference.
If you mean are the king-pin angles "pointing at contact patch" and caster-angle (self-centering) done in the same operation (e.g. welding the headset-tubes into the cross-beam, then YES; done at the same time.
There is no specific "camber adjustment, each wheel should be perpendicular (and no other colour).
Toe-in/out is set on the length of the tie-bar between the two wheels.
I wasn’t sure I was missing something, caster & center line angles are set at the same time with basically the fish mouth you would cut & grind in the ends of the cross Beam.
Thanks for your answer
Ron
DannyC
0
No worries Ron. I also used Popshot's approach to welding my axle mounting tabs bottom of the kingpins with a threaded M16 rod to keep the wheels vertical (I was using SA 90mm drum-hubs for my front wheels).
